CANOEING THE ZAMBEZI
I J Larivers
At 1,600 miles, the Zambezi River is Africa’s fourth largest, and the longest watercourse that flows eastward, into the Indian Ocean. The Zambezi River basin comprises over half a million square miles of God’s Own Country, arising in Zambia and flowing through or bordering on parts of Angola, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Mozambique, whence it opens out into a huge delta, before finally emptying into the Indian Ocean. The Zambezi is noted for the magnificent Victoria Falls, and two ambitious hydroelectric schemes, the Kariba and Cahora Bassa dams. Along the border with Zambia to the North and Zimbabwe to the south, the mighty river flows through two stunning gorges, the Kariba and the Mpata. 35 years ago, my good friend Nigel Wentworth-Browne and I canoed the river from the base of the Kariba Dam wall, to the border town of Chirundu.
The Kariba Gorge borders Zambia and Zimbabwe, and the chasm which remains today is but a vestige of the depression that was filled by Lake Kariba after the dam wall was built, creating the world’s largest man-made lake (by volume) over the period 1958-1963.
A large number of Tonga people were relocated from the gorge after the dam wall’s completion, and between 1958 and 1964, Operation Noah was undertaken by the Rhodesian government and led by Rupert Fothergill, to rescue wildlife trapped by the rising waters. More than 6,000 animals were extracted, and the majority were released in what is today the Matusadona National Park.
Before the construction of the Kariba Dam, and before the 20th century caught up with the Kariba Gorge, the Tonga people were protected and shepherded through difficult times by the god of the Zambezi Valley, and the river in particular, Nyami Nyami. With the head of a fish perched atop the body of a snake, Nyami Nyami wasn’t one to mess with. When he was having a bad hair day, it was the role of the spirit mediums and tribal elders to attempt to appease him on behalf of the villagers. The river god is believed to reside in the dark waters of the Zambezi, and he was in high dudgeon when construction of the dam wall began; the Tongas believed that the lake would separate him from his wife, so you can see his point. A couple of unusually robust floods which brought the construction of the dam wall to a standstill, and the human collateral damage that would be expected from such a large undertaking in the primitive conditions of the African bush cemented Nyami Nyami’s street creds no end. But eventually the dam wall was completed, the lake was filled, and pretty much everybody but Nyami Nyami lived happily ever after. Today, the 20+km ravine which extends from the base of the dam wall to Nyamoumba, where the river flows out onto a huge floodplain, is all that remains of the original gorge downstream of the dam.
Back in the late ‘80s, though there were commercial canoe safaris operating on the Zambezi, it was easy enough to go to National Parks in Harare and get a permit to do your own thing from the Warden, Tourism, Anne Moore. That done, Nige and I secured the canoe to the top of his beach buggy, and we drove to Kariba where we overnighted, if I remember, at the M.O.T.H. chalets, quaint and comfortable. The next morning, we arranged porters to carry the canoe and our camping gear down into the gorge at the base of the dam wall. The sun had not yet risen, and the spring air was chilly. From the top, some really big crocodiles could be seen lazing in the pool at the base of the dam, where they wouldn’t have to work too hard for the remains of any fish coming out of the turbines. The water was dark and calm, though every now and again a large eddy might appear, and together with the crocs holding station out in the pool, they served as a reminder that once on the river, Nyami Nyami himself was still very much the boss.
The commercial canoe safaris would usually get through the Kariba Gorge on the first day, and set camp a a designated spot on the floodplain; whether that was necessary in terms of their permits I don’t know, but to Nige and I, the gorge was the main attraction, and we spent the first three nights within its striking confines. The idea wasn’t to put distance behind us, but just to drift along, enjoy the panoramas, and if the following night’s campsite was only a few kilometres from the previous one, who cares?
On the first day, we rounded a bend, and a small tributary came in from the south. A large sandbank extended out well into the river, and the first thought that came to mind, seeing a small pod of hippos in the shallows by the sandbank, was Chessa! Being small-mouthed fish which would likely be in the presence of the hippos. We had noticed a couple of crocs just floating on the surface mid-river, holding station, and as we anchored the canoe on the sandbank in a few inches of water, we made mental and verbal notes to keep a constant eye on them. The hippo had dispersed into deeper water, and we tried our hand on light tackle where the small stream came in. After a couple of hours, we had caught a number of squeaker, and that was about it. The squeaker is a type of catfish with a long, bony skull, and sharp barbs protruding from the dorsal and pectoral fins. It squeaks and grunts when removed from the water, and care must be taken not to get speared by one of the barbs.
????????????????????????????????????
Gradually, we’d worked our way out along the sandbank where it disappeared into the fast-flowing current of the gorge, hoping for a tiger fish or two, and of course we’d forgotten all about the crocodiles. There are instances in probably everyone’s life that seem to push their way to the fore should you awaken from a deep sleep in the middle of the night. That compel you to think – and sometimes say convincingly out loud – “It didn’t happen! Forget about it!”. That prevent you from dropping back off to sleep until they have been relegated back where they belong in the deeper recesses of your memory. Looking down into the river, probably a foot or two in front of me and locking eyes with a crocodile is one of those instances for me. It wasn’t a big one – maybe 6 or 7 feet – but it would have been big enough had it been seriously intent on a meal. Do crocodiles get curious? Probably not, for they haven’t really changed in over a hundred million years. They’re just feeding machines; all I know is that I re-learned a lesson I already knew, and that was never to put myself in that kind of a position with one. As an aside, walking on water? I found that it’s not really all that difficult.
That evening, we pitched our bivvys on a sandbank. The squeakers were labour-intensive, requiring pliers to remove the skin and leaving only a couple of thumb-sized fillets, but the meat was delicious; I’ve never thrown a squeaker back since. A couple of scotches while somewhere above the gorge a lion was vocalizing, and a good night’s sleep.
We were only on the river for five nights, and so we had brought bacon and eggs for the first morning; breakfast dealt with we carried on, drifting, fishing, and exploring any interesting-looking features along the way.
When we finally arrived at the end of the gorge, we made our last camp just inside its walls. Mooring the canoe to a large boulder which looked like a good place to try for some tiger, Nige noticed a baby boomslang, not more than maybe 6-8 Inches long, staring at us at eye-level from a small bush and pretending very hard not to be there. In the afternoon we paddled out to some rocky islands which had had potholes eroded into them over how many hundreds of years we could only guess. We cast a couple of lines out into the current for tiger and excavated the contents of a couple of the holes. Underneath a few inches of sand, at about arm’s length, I recovered an old fork, with “GS”, for “government service” stamped into the handle. While my tiger fish was busy unhooking itself.
The morning of the next day, our penultimate one on the river, Nige caught a frog just as the sun rose, put it on his hook, and hauled in a very nice tiger.
I took a photo of what appeared to be an unusual cloud formation building up over Zambia as we headed out into the floodplain. As we drifted along, it grew into the stuff of which 40 days and 40 nights legends are made. We pitched camp on one of the larger islands in the river as it started to rain, and feasted on canned ham and dry biscuits. It was impossible to keep dry, but it wasn’t all that uncomfortable. The next day a couple of hours of determined paddling took us to Chirundu, where the beach buggy had been left for us. The rain carried on, gently, for some days.
Chirundu was to be the staging point for our next canoe trip, through the Mpata Gorge, down to where Zimbabwe, Zambia and Mozambique all converge, but that’s another story.
The trip was primarily a break; a good excuse to get out of the city and see some new places. But I’d also been tasked by Graham Nott, the chief of investigations for National Parks, to use the excursion to get a feel for the area. Especially between the Red Cliffs at the downstream end of the gorge, and Kanyemba where there was a lot of cross-border traffic, legal and otherwise, with the village of Luangwa in Zambia. High on the list of priorities was making contact with Zimbabwean and Zambian fishermen who might be groomed into passable confidential informants who could provide intelligence about incursions of ivory-poaching gangs and the cross-border traffic in illegal ivory and rhino horn. These were the days before cellphones, but we would send in experienced informants from time to time who would surreptitiously make the rounds of the local villages and talk to the locals who knew things.
We’d taken advantage of the “work” aspect to draw an AK-47 and a couple of Parks VHF handheld radios, but the best piece of kit, which was made available by Chris Pakenham, the warden at Darwendale, was one of the Parks aluminium canoes with a stern transom so we could take a little 3hp motor just for in case. This also makes heading back upstream, if necessary, a lot easier. Chris had work in the Valley, and took us to Chirundu in the station Unimog.
Neither of us had previously had any experience with aluminium canoes, but we quickly found they were very different to the more common fiberglass ones in that they weighed almost nothing, and that buoyancy translated into instability unless they were appropriately loaded down. Crocodiles no doubt daydream about a couple of idiots falling out of a canoe as they lazily bask their lives away on the river’s myriad sandbanks. Fortunately, with provisions for five nights plus, the canoe settled down nicely when we’d packed it.
It was late morning when we launched from the old police jetty at Chirundu, and we had resolved to get below where the Kafue River comes into the Zambezi from Zambia before we started looking around for a campsite. It was nice just to be on the water, and we set out a couple of lines for whatever might be biting, and just drifted with the current. Traversing Zambia, the Kafue is the Zambezi’s biggest tributary, and we passed where the two converge and found a nice campsite under a couple of Faidherbia albidas. Except they weren’t Faidherbia albidas then, but that’s another story. We’d shaken down the canoe that afternoon, but we had to unpack it every evening and portage it up to where we were camping. Especially with that little 3hp motor. Zambians like nice things too. The campsite was pretty nondescript, but we cooked up some nice T-bone steaks with fresh vegetables – something that we would only be able to do for the first couple of days – and toasted the sunset over Zambia.
Days on the river tend to merge together, so relaxing are they, and by the end of the second day we’d made a few new friends of some Zambian fishermen with whom we’d swopped some hooks and line, and contact details. They would think nothing of coming across to the Zimbabwe side to meet with one f our guys at a later stage if so arranged.
Just after lunch, we picked up a stalker. Back in the ‘90s the river’s hippo population seemed a lot more chilled than it does now. Probably just less traffic on the river. But they are essential to watch out for. Somewhere between the Sapi and Chewore areas, we noticed a young hippo pop his head up about 30 or so metres behind us, and fix us with what, to a hippo, was probably a baleful stare. We must’ve floated (we never used the motor unless absolutely necessary) right over him, and we saw no signs of any others in close proximity. He wasn’t very big at all. Whatever his life story might have been, we paid him no further attention as we started looking for the evening’s campsite. He, on the other hand, pretty much kept station for the next hour or so, popping up periodically to check us out. He didn’t come any closer, but definitely seemed to have an obsession. Even after we’d found a campsite he hung around for awhile, but there was neither hide nor hair of him the next day.
We finished the last of the fresh provisions with an early dinner, and eagerly anticipated the next day – the Mpata Gorge was in sight. In the early evening the sound of drums floated across the river from Zambia. It’s a sound I love, but we were still mindful of the possibility of nocturnal incursions across the river and the loss of gear. We hadn’t glassed the opposite bank in good daylight, so we didn’t really know what was there. Now, a thunderflash is a very useful thing to have along in the bush. We had packed away a couple of the “new” ones which Major Bob Cox was making up for National Parks. Gone were the old black powder tubes I was familiar with. These were plastic bottles such as medicines come in, filled with ammonium nitrate with a match-head detonator attached to a length of Cordtex. Nige tossed one of these out onto the river in the gathering dusk, and it went off with an almighty concussion, echoed back by the mouth of the gorge. There was quiet from the other side of the Zambezi. The next morning, we set up a proper spotting scope on a tripod and scanned the Zambian bank. What we saw when we looked hard was a safari camp – the poor guests were probably just being called to dinner the previous evening!
The Mpata gorge is a stretch of the mighty Zambezi River that is even more spectacular than the Kariba Gorge. The water level was low, which exposed a lot of rocks that could otherwise be submerged, and made the gorge even more prepossessing.
Only a few hours’ paddle from the impressive Red Cliffs on the Kanyemba side, we chose to spend a couple of nights within the confines of the gorge; again, squeaker were the most common fish, and we could easily catch enough for an evening feast. During our last night in the gorge, a storm front moved in from downstream. We awoke to grey, overcast skies, and the river had developed a chop from a stiff breeze coming upriver. We chose to stow a few ballast stones in the bottom of the canoe to give it a little more stability.
Once out of the gorge on our penultimate day in the Valley, we drifted, rather than paddled, the short distance to Kanyemba. Past where police senior assistant commissioner John Chademana had poached the buffalo that ended his career in a well-publicised trial a few years earlier, and where we had fished and explored on a couple of previous trips to Kanyemba.
Kanyemba now boasts a number of fishing and safari camps, though in those days the only amenities were a couple of ramshackle chalets glorying in the name Falcon Lodges, and “administered” by the District Development Fund. They were in poor condition, but we hired a couple of children to clean them out for us, and heat some water. I’d brought along an old Ruger Blackhawk revolver in .357 magnum that by then was full of sand, so I siphoned off some paraffin from one of the lamps, stripped it, and cleaned it whilst watching a magnificent sunset and enjoying a 12 year-old Tobermory Malt scotch, which I’d become addicted to during a visit to the Isle of Mull some years previously.
Just a little ways further downstream was a police camp, and I wished I’d gotten the chance to visit Luangwa, across the river in Zambia, for there was a rich history there.
At the end of the 19th century, John Harrison Clark styled himself “Chief Changa-Changa”, King of the Senga. One frequently-told story is that he was forced to flee the Cape colony as an outlaw after having accidentally killed a man. Who knows? It was the time of legends, and he was the sort of character that would come to attract a mystique surrounding him. Whatever the reason, his wanderings took him to Portugese Mozambique, and he followed the Zambezi River upstream to the abandoned village of Feira, where the Luangwa joins the Zambezi. Now called Luangwa, and known to Livingstone, Feira had been founded by Portugese missionaries as probably the first European settlement in what is now Zambia, sometime around 1820. By1887, when Clark arrived, it was a ghost town. Deserted after a native uprising decades before, it had never been re-occupied. Its emptiness apparently suited Clark, and he took up residence, flying the British Merchant Navy’s red ensign above his boma.
As he was the only one thereabouts with his own army, Clark levied and collected “taxes” in the form of cattle and other livestock from the African villagers and sold “trading licenses” to foreign merchants, reaping ivory, gold and other trade goods in payment. In the case of ivory hunters, his “export tax” was half of their bounty. He also defended the local villagers and colonial traders from slavers and marauders.
The following morning, we were uplifted, and made the trip back to Harare. Wishing we weren’t.